The hills are alive with the sound of... trail running
I had never considered visiting Salzburg, but when a friend of mine invited me to stay with her family for a few days in the Austrian city I took her up on the suggestion and flew out for four days of running, sight seeing and a special bike tour.
This is a running blog so I'll stick to giving an account of that, but I must recommend Fraulein Maria's Bicycle Tours that my friend helps lead. The famous musical, The Sound of Music, was filmed in Salzburg and the four hour cycling tour takes groups to some of the featured sites. Along the way songs from the film are played and the guide gives insights into the cast and characters. I joined one of the groups and can highly recommended the tour - even though I haven't seen the film - yet!
Back to the running.
Salzburg is in the west of Austria just a few miles north of the German border, and at the entrance to the Eastern Alps. It is most famous for being the birthplace of Mozart. The city is built along the banks of the Salzach River and has a population of 156,000, making it the fourth largest city in the country. The Hohensalzburg Fortress stands on a hill above the Altstadt (Old Town) on the left bank and Neustadt (New City) on the right.
On my first full day I headed through the beautiful Mirabellgarten with its colourful rose beds, palace, fountains, statues and the oldest Dwarf Garden in Europe.
My route took me up the Kapuzinerberg mountain (640m) past the 13 Oratories of the Way of the Cross and the Cloister, through the woods and to one of the many fortress towers that date back to the 17th century.
Steep steps led me back down, now on the opposite side to the city. After a mile of flat running I began to climb the Kuhberg mountain (712m). This involved a scramble up steep trails before revealing a stunning view of alpine fields resplendent with purple, yellow and white flowers accompanied by cows with large bells hanging around their necks that provided a musical accompaniment to my run.
The trail climbed yet further and became too steep to run. I power walked to the top of the Gaisberg mountain (1288m) as the trail zig zagged upwards. At the top I stopped for a pretzel and some fruit while being entertained by paragliders launching themselves off the summit. Then it was down, down, down into the valley and back to Salzburg.
Once back in the city I headed for the Hohensalzburg Fortress, climbing up the narrow streets to the Richterhohe (505m). I also took in the Karolinenhohe (508m) and Monchsberg Nord (483m) admiring the stunning views out across the city.
Day two. I wanted to get into the Alps but my quads felt sore from all the climbing on day one. I decided to take it easy and jogged to the Meierhoff Schloss Leopoldscron, a palace situated next to a tranquil lake. I then headed along the canal. Multiple sets of stairs had been placed along the banks to allow people to bathe and swim in the clear, cold water running down from the mountains into the river. A few swimmers were braving the icy water while a group of local surfers were using a weir to practice.
As I continued south I soon arrived in Grodig at the foot of the Untersberg mountain (1973m). I wanted to scale it, but hadn't brought any food or water. I knew this would be dangerous so decided just to climb a little way up...
The route began in Glanegg a mile to the west. I passed a sign which warned that the route was 'Only for the experienced. Sure footedness and freedom from dizzy spells are needed.' It soon ramped up in elevation. I was surrounded by thick forest and there was a river beside me, falling down a chasm in the rockface.
The trail was very narrow and steep, but soft underfoot. Thick soil, fallen leaves and tree roots were beneath my feet. Butterflies filled the air. The crick, crick of grasshoppers, cheep of birds and splashing of descending water soundtracked the experience.
I was hungry and knew I couldn't go far without food as I would need to get back. I decided that I would stop at 1000 feet unless I could get some food from someone. Thankfully I met a couple who were heading back to the bottom after just 500 feet. They kindly gave me two bananas, an energy bar and some water so I continued on.
At 1500 feet a series of ladders had been placed on the path to allow further ascent. I was comfortable climbing them, but less keen on the thought of descending with such a big drop off to one side. I decided to turn back as it was also incredibly hot. I had refilled my water bottle from the alpine stream and dipped my hat in the water, but my legs were tired.
Once back in Grodig I found a cafe and had a slice of Schwarzvalder Kirshetorte. I jumped on a bus to return to the centre of town, but it was cash only so I ended up running back which gave me the opportunity for a quick dip in the canal / ice bath.
Two days, 31 miles run, over 6000 feet elevation and some incredible unforgettable views. I highly recommend Salzburg for your trail running adventure.
