GB Ultras Pennine Barrier Ultra recce - Yorkshire


We began to retrace our steps. Climbing up the mud sleeked slope was just as bad as it had been on the way down earlier in the day. People were falling in the waterlogged mud as the rain hammered down and the wind screamed in our ears. This wasn't what I had signed up for. I felt like a real mardy bum and had my face on. It was time for me to get my head down and go into my shell for a while - 'ear all, see all, say nowt, was my motto.

As we re-entered the moor I realised there was noone immediately before or behind me. I was at a point where I could go one of two ways and I had no idea which would take me the right way. Wet, cold, tired, hungry and lost. By 'eck this was turning into a right chuffin' 'mare.

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Another weekend, another running trip. This time in God's own country - Yorkshire. GB Ultras organise a 50 mile event in the Yorkshire Dales every year. It's called the Pennine Barrier Ultra. I was unable to commit to the race, but they were offering a two day recce of the route the last weekend in March so I signed up.

Day one was an out and back from Malham to the foot of Pen-y Ghent. I was staying in Settle six miles away. Another runner called Richard kindly offered to give me a lift to the start as he was staying nearby. I met him in the town square at 7.10 under a grey sky. The forecast was for high winds, rain and hail on the hills. Nice.

We arrived at the car park in Malham where about 25 other people in shorts, trail shoes, brightly coloured coats, hats, gloves and hydration vests were gathering. Just after eight we had a welcome from the GB Ultras crew, posed for a photo and then set off towards Malham Cove.


A smooth trail path wound slowly upwards beside Malham Beck as the clear water roared south to join the River Aire. It wasn't long before the limestone cliffs of Malham Cove appeared above us. It was a steep climb up dozens of steps to reach the otherworldly landscape 260 feet above. It felt as though we had stepped into the mouth of a giant. Limestone rocks, like giant molars covered the surface. The scene before us had featured in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.



The Clints (limestone blocks) and Grikes (gaps) form a geometric pattern. Each block is comprised of calcium carbonate and contains thousands of fossilised shells. When the ice sheets drew back 15,000 years ago, the soil was removed and left the Clints. Grikes were then formed by rainfall seeping into the fractures. The surfaces have been worn down over the years by the elements and footfalls of thousands of visitors. The recent wet weather had made the limestone incredibly slippery and we had to step with care.

Having successfully made our way through without anyone falling, we were faced with another steep climb up a narrow gully. A small river was running straight down the 'path' made up of thousands of scattered rocks and thick mud. Ironically this is called Dry Valley. Before long our feet were soaked in freezing cold water.


At the top we waited for everyone to come back together before pressing on to Watersinks car park where support crew were ready with water, soft fizzy drinks and a selection of snacks including pretzels, crisps, chocolate and more.

We were now on the flat and enjoyed the view across the surface of Malham Tarn - a glacial lake and one of only eight upland alkaline lakes in Europe. Waves lapped up on the shoreline, whipped up by the gusty wind that was blowing against us. We regrouped again at the field study centre located on the north side.


A short downhill section allowed us to stretch out our legs a little before we reached Malham Moor. It was tough going as we climbed higher and crossed increasingly gnarly and technical terrain made up of bog, deep mud and scattered rocks. Eventually we reached a row of Cairns marking the summit at 660m, but the hardest part was still to come.


The descent was initially tricky, with the need to take care with every step as boulders, stones and pebbles could cause a stumble and fall resulting in injury. It was made worse by the weather conditions. A mixture of rain and hail began lashing us and the gusty winds continued to roar in our faces. Keeping upright was hard enough without the need to fight to maintain our balance in a battle with the blustery squall.

Eventually the rocky surface was left behind, but now we faced an even more difficult surface - waterlogged grass. Descending the precipitous slope without skidding was almost impossible. Many people found themselves on their backsides as the ground slipped out from underneath their grippy trail shoes as though they were wearing slippers. Battered, bruised and covered in mud we stopped and compared experiences before heading for the turn around where the crew met us.

The rain was now hammering down and we were soaked to the bone. It was no longer fun. I wanted to finish and go back for a hot shower and a coffee. But 'what can tha do when thi boots let watter' as the Yorkshire expression goes. In other words you can't change the situation so you just have to accept it.

Off we went again back the way we had come. Up the mud slide and rock wall, across the boggy moor and into no man's land. Now, here I was alone and unsure which way to take. Suddenly I caught a flash of yellow out of the corner of my eye. I looked again, yes, it was a sleeve, and in that sleeve an arm, waving. I ran towards what turned out to be another member of the group. He too was alone and had decided to wait for others to join him.

After a few minutes there was a group of five including one of the guides and we set off confident of getting back to Malham. The conditions started to improve slightly as we descended. The rain abated and the wind was now at our backs. 

We passed the Tarn and, after a final rest stop, descended to Malham Cove. This time we took an alternative route behind the Cove, through green fields and past Janet's Foss waterfall. A large number of walkers and day trippers had now arrived. As we approached the car park I felt a wave of relief. I was still soaked, cold and filthy, but we had made it back in one piece which was no mean feat.

Richard and I had a quick coffee with another member of the group called Philippa and debated whether to return for day two. Philippa and I had already decided to skip it, but Richard was going to see how he felt in the morning.

A big thanks to GB Ultras for organising a wonderful day out in difficult conditions. All the best with the race everyone who has entered.

With Richard in a rare moment of sunshine.

Postscript: Richard finished day two. I attempted the three peaks solo. Read about it here.

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