London's 13 Cabmen's Shelters

 

If you were to wander through the streets of Central London you may notice some green sheds. These are known as Cabmen's Shelters (there were no cabwomen when they were built. I prefer to call them cabby shelters.)

In the 1870s cabby drivers were perched above their cab holding the horses reins come rain or shine, freezing fog or thick snow. There were none of the comforts of heating, air conditioning or Radio 6 Music. On top of that they were not allowed to leave their cabs when they needed food or a drink. Many would do however. Usually to enter a public house where you had to purchase alcohol leading to many incidents of drink driving.

The result was misery for many if not all employed in the trade. A novel solution was found in 1872 when a prototype stand opened in Knightsbridge.

On his blog www.london-walking-tours.co.uk Richard Jones shares a quote from the time:

"Some philanthropic gentlemen have kindly taken in hand the task of making the lives of our cabmen a little less unendurable and, by way of commencement, have opened a model refreshment house near an important cabstand at Knightsbridge.

It has, in fact, occurred to these gentlemen that cabmen, like those who ride in cabs, do occasionally require some support in the way of food and drink, and that to expect them to be in all weathers seated upon the box from morning to night, is unreasonable.

The fact is that, let the regulations be what they will, drivers must occasionally leave their vehicles and this being the case, it is certainly better to recognise the practice, and to make some provision for carrying it out without danger to the public.

Generally, the appointed attendant at the stand would be quite capable of guarding for a short time, even, one or two cabs so left and a trifling fee to him might be permitted. Cabmen are, after all, not much worse than the average of human nature.

They sometimes, it is true, form an exaggerated estimate of the sum they are going to receive from a passenger, and are apt to be disappointed, and to give vent to their feelings when dismissed with what they call "bare fare."

But this is a peculiarity of most classes whose reward is uncertain, as it necessarily must be with cabmen, while some fares are as unnecessarily generous, as others are severely economical and there is certainly some excuse for them in the fact that cabmasters are well aware of the custom of pour boires and extra six pences, and regulate their demands on the men accordingly.

Anyway, there is no harm in trying a little kindness with the cabdrivers. Perhaps in time even the rudest members of the class may be ashamed to bully the public when they find the public not indisposed to treat them with more humanity and consideration."

And so it began. A media campaign followed in support of the over 7000 cab drivers working in London at the time. A Cabmen's Shelter Fund was set up in 1874 to which the public donated generously. 

The first shelter opened in St John's Wood in February 1875. It was 17 feet by 6 feet and provided light, water and a stove for an attendant to wait on the cabbies. They were a great success and individual philanthropists began to donate the full price of a shelter.

Thirty three were open by January 1884 and by the turn of the 20th Century there were over 60. Many were being used by the general public when they made their way home from a night out, to the detriment of the cabby community.

When the automobile replaced horse drawn cabs the shelter's days were numbered and now there are just 13 remaining. Most of these still function to serve Black Cab drivers and others although I found out they only accept cash so wasn't able to complete the experience by buying something.

Why am I writing abut this? Well I decided to try and run from my home in Lewisham SE13 to all of the shelters and back. A cabby shelter treasure hunt using only my scribbled notes and Google Maps.

My route

I arrived via Peckham and Camberwell at The Oval Cricket ground. I headed west through Battersea Park and crossed Albert Bridge to find CS1 (Cabby Shelter 1).

CS1 Chelsea Embankment

From there I ran along the north bank of the Thames to CS2 in St George's Square, Pimlico passing some incredible residential properties.

Pimlico streets

CS2 St George's Square

Belgrave Road took me north-west past Victoria Station to Grosvenor Gardens and CS3. 

CS3 - Grosvenor Gardens

I was now in Belgravia and spotted a gated park called Belgrave Square Garden. It was surrounded on all four sides by Embassies including those of Bahrain, Norway, Spain, Ghana, Portugal, Romania, Malaysia, and Cote d'Ivoire.

I tried a gate and it opened. Inside was a statue of Simon Bolivar, a homage to Leonardo and a tennis court. There was also a children's party complete with someone dressed as Super Mario. When I tried to leave all the gates were locked. I ended up asking one of the local residents -who pay over £300 a year for their keys- to let me out, which he did after a few disapproving words.

Leonardo homage

Super Mario

A mile west, and assured that the police weren't on my tail, I arrived at Pont Street and CS4.

CS4 - Pont Street

Continuing west through the plush residential area and boutiques of Knightsbridge I spotted CS5 in the middle of Brompton Road adjacent to the Victoria and Albert Museum. This one was located in the centre of the road whereas the others had been situated beside parks. There was a separate traffic lane for taxis to park up in front and behind.

CS5 - Thurloe Place

Next stop Hyde Park. My route took me north on Exhibition Road past Imperial College London, the Natural History Museum, V&A and Royal Geographical Society. I turned left when I reached the park and ran past the Royal Albert Hall before stopping for a photo at CS6.

CS6 - Kensington Road

By now I had covered over 15 miles and stopped at Calicci cafe for probably the most delicious vegan sausage roll I have ever tasted. I would say it was worth the price but it cost a fiver. Delicious though. I washed it down with an oat flat white while people watching and set out across Kensington Gardens feeling refreshed.

At Notting Hill Gate underground station I turned right into Kensington Park Road where CS7 can be found.

CS7 - Kensington Park Road

Notting Hill is stunning (and thankfully not very hilly). I enjoyed seeing all the shops, markets and cafes full after being reopened following Lockdown 3. 

Donuts - never a bad time

When I reached the Westway I turned east and followed the Regent's Canal to Warwick Avenue and CS8. 

CS8 - Warwick Avenue

The next shelter would be the furthest north. After that I was heading back towards home. At this point I passed Lord's and realised I had now run past both of London's international cricket grounds. At this point I was in St John's Wood. CS9 was in Wellington Place. A number of cabbies were drinking coffee and chatting. I asked permission to take a photo and we got chatting.

CS9 - Wellington Place

A Roger Daltrey lookalike with the gift of the gab (see photo, standing centre) asked me about my run and I filled him in. His mates were interested to know some of the history. One of them told me he wasn't licensed yet and that he was only at Btec level moaning - weather, traffic etc. He added that higher qualifications were necessary to complain about the big stuff like Brexit, Covid etc. They wished me luck and I set off for Regent's Park which was in full spring bloom.

Regent's Park blossom

At this point I was feeling very tired and struggling to find my way. Eventually I stumbled upon the next shelter CS10 in Russell Square. 

CS10 - Russell Square

Here I asked direction from a couple of cabbies that had stopped for a brew (see photo) and they directed me onwards to Oxford Street and CS11 Hanover Square. The streets were thronged with shoppers and I donned my protective face mask while sticking to the kerbs and bus lanes.

CS11 - Hanover Square

When I arrived the shelter was surrounded by barriers and closed. I'm not sure if they are planning to remove, renovate or reopen it. 

The next two shelters would be easy to find and were within easy reach but I was low on water and phone battery. Without the phone I couldn't navigate or document my trip.

When I reached Trafalgar Square I stopped at Cafe Nero (other cafes are available but this one saved my journey and so I'll give them a plug). The woman serving kindly charged my phone and refilled my water bottle in exchange for purchasing a coffee which was much needed.

My phone and legs recharged I headed down Northumberland Avenue to Embankment and CS12.

CS12 - Embankment Place

I knew I was tired and hangry when I nearly shouted at someone who walked in front of my shot. Good thing the last shelter was just along the river - CS13 Temple Place.

CS13 - Temple Place

You can tell from the vacant look on my face that I was exhausted. Now I faced a dilemma. Marathon distance achieved should I just catch the train home or run the full route. Of course I decided to run. 

This meant some nice photo opportunities but also a rather nasty fall at London Bridge when I failed to lift my foot high enough when climbing a curve and did a rather bad impression of Bruce Willis ducking and rolling.

After giving myself a good talking to I returned home without further incident after 34 largely enjoyable miles. Here are the photos. No, there are none of my fall (that I know of).

Victoria Embankment Gardens

Middle Temple Gardens